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Don
Lancaster's Guru's Lair Some Gila Valley Day Hikes |
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Over the years, I've managed to make at least one trip
somewhere just about every week forever. Some for
caving, some for tinaja quests, some for escape, some
for Bed and Breakfasts, and some plain old day hikes.
I thought I might compile a list of nearby Gila Valley
day hikes here. Some of which even the natives have
never heard of.
Since a very few of these are rather sensitive, I will
leave all specific access details out on everything.
You should be able to find out where most of these
are with a little further research on your own.
Topo maps can be found here and aerial photos here.
I've personally visited nearly all of these sites at least
once. While many are close in, a very few of the more
intriguing locations may involve an hour's drive or so.
Please report your own additions, corrections, present
conditions, or comments here.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 1 - 13: | . |
|
FREY MESA FALLS -- Waterfalls, rock
scrambling, fishing.
RED KNOLLS -- Has many dozens of
pseudokarst pits. These are very easy
to rig -- just push the bolts in with your
thumb.
McENARY TUNNEL - One of
many local investment scams. This
one to tap Mount Graham for water.
SAFFORD GRIDS -- Spectacular pre
historic ag structures. Possibly used to
farm agaves for mescal.
SANCHEZ CCC CAMP -- Amazingly close
in "ghost town" seems virtually unknown.
Buildings, trails, oil change ramps.
TENSION STATION -- Much of the
Mount Graham Tramway is very hard
to access. But the first tension station
is an easy hike with minimal 4WD.
CACHE CAVE -- Small rock shelter that
once held a spectacular collection of
ancient basketry and other artifacts.
BONITA CREEK - Nearby wet stream
has indian ruins, birds, hiking, and history
RINCON SPRING - Mile long dayhike
gives sweeping valley views. Very seldom
traveled. Excellent winter trip. Go north
from Marijilda crossing.
DEAD CAMEL PLACE - Footprints of
paleo animals and other paleontology.
FORT GRANT ICE CAVES -- No longer
have any ice in them because of global
warming. In spheroidally eroded granite.
GOAT HILL SITE -- Indian ruin on the
summit of a small knoll. Dating from the
1300's. Other ruins nearby.
ZEOLITE MINES -- Thin layers of minerals
with an incredible variety of catalytic, filtering,
and similar uses.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 14 - 26: | . |
|
GILLARD HOT SPRING -- One of the
hottest anywhere at 180 degrees. Mixes
rapidly with the cooler Gila River.
CARTER BOX -- Secret hidden pools
here once held native fish. I am not sure
what our drought conditions have done
recently
MORENCI CRYSTAL CAVE - Several
hundred feet of passage, typically with a
lake blocking some easier access.
MOUNT GRAHAM SAWMILL - Largest
and most important sawmill on the mountain.
Both the tramway and the flume started here.
HIDDEN GILA ACCESS -- Obscure ag
roads lead to an amazingly pristine river
stretch halfway between Pima and Thatcher.
ASH CREEK - Nice picnic area with a
running stream. Flume and mountain access
trails further up.
MOUNT GRAHAM OBSERVATORY --
Incredible technology. Guided tours only
from Discovery Park. Seasonal.
APACHE BOX -- A favorite hiking area
of BLM employees just over the NM
border. Nearby Zen monastery tours.
STOCKTON & GILLEPSIE WASHES --
Nice picnic areas. Through hikes down
stream are easy but only seldom done.
HOT WELL DUNES - BLM hot tubs,
sand dunes, off road vehicle paradise.
Enforced dress code.
BEAR BASIN -- The most obscure trail
access on the North side of the Grahams.
May have water and tinajas higher up.
SAN CARLOS FALLS -- Spectacular
but difficult canyoneering on the res.
Rec permit required and enforced.
ALLEN RESEVOIR -- Failed flood
control dam is seldom visited. Makes
for interesting close in exploration.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 27 - 39: | . |
|
OAK GROVE CANYON -- Seldom
visited and little known feeder canyon
to Aravaipa offers a wet stream, cliffs,
riparian. Access presently limited.
GOAT WELL DETENTION -- Spectacular
San Simon erosional features caused by
extreme long term overgrazing.
CUNNINGHAM ROADS -- old logging
trails atop Mt. Graham are closed to
vehicles but offer superb and easy hiking
and mountain biking.
SANTA TERESA ROCK CLIMBING --
World class climbing granite is little
known and seldom visited. Klondyke
Wall is particularly challenging.
MARIJILDA PICNIC AREA -- Small
pools are perfect for kiddies. Lots of
big trees, but fewer because of recent
flood damage.
MORENCI MINE TOUR -- Commercial
tours of one of the largest copper mines
in the world. Reservations required.
YELLOWSTONE DAM -- small catchment
in scenic area has an unusual flying buttress
architecture.
OLD MORENCI BRIDGE -- Restored
historic bridge on the backcountry byway
is also a shady picnic area and a Gila
River whitewater put in.
WEST END MINES -- Historic district
east of Duncan offers all sorts of exploration
possibilities. Avoid tunnels and shafts!
PIMA BOX -- Unusual geological feature
forms a short box canyon in the Upper
Sonoran life zone. Javelinas common here.
Black Hills Arch is further upcanyon.
ROPER LAKE STATE PARK -- Has
developed hot springs, lakes with islands,
fishing, camping, hiking.
FLYING BOXCAR - Rare static display
of a military C119E twin boom cargo and
paratroop plane at Pima International Airport,
aka the Flying J. Call in advance.
LEBANON PONDS - Collection of fairly large
reservoirs that hold seasonal water and provide
storage for a historic irrigation district.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 40 - 52: | . |
|
GILA BOX -- Hiking access to the box
itself is difficult, but the whitewater takeout
near the Flying W picnic ground includes
superb swimming.
DEADMAN CANYON -- Offers several
waterfalls, mid-route access to the Round the
Mountain trail, and an irrigation canal that
runs along the highest point on its ridge.
EAGLE CREEK BAT CAVE -- Early
guano mining combined with seasonal
bat flights. F-M permit recommended.
OLD MARBLE QUARRY -- Historic
artifacts in Emigrant Canyon include
steam engines and other equipment.
Also rappelling and huge stone blocks.
SAN SIMON BARRIER DAM -- Erosion
control structure quickly filled with mud the
instant it was built. Proves that one of the
indicator species of overgrazing is cows.
DANKWORTH PONDS -- One time
warm spring fish farm offers hiking and
day picnicking, trails, and shady escape.
CHINA PEAK OBSERVATORY -- A
largely abandoned U/A geophysical
facility includes a remote airport runway
and an experimental geodetic dome.
SNOW FLAT -- Small lake near the end
of pavement. A hidden trail leads the back
way to Treasure Park.
DISCOVERY PARK -- A failed museum is
now part of EAC. Nature trails, telescope
access, flight simulators, lectures, more.
MARIJILDA RUIN -- Multi-family rock
architecture prehistoric native structures
date from the 13th century.
SAFFORD-MORENCI TRAIL -- Old horse
route has been developed and marked by
BLM. Mine activity may limit partial access.
ROCKHOUNDING -- Areas include Black
Hills and Round Mountain for fire agate and
chalcedony; Stanley Butte for garnet.
ARAVAIPA GHOST TOWN -- Some
buildings remain from an old mining district.
Access may be landowner restricted.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 53 - 65: | . |
|
ROUND THE MOUNTAIN TINAJAS -
Just below the crossing in Upper Marijilda.
These are world class rock pools.
FISHOOKS WILDERNESS - Remote area
with solitude, ruins, small streams, riparian.
Rarely visited.
RIGGS FLAT LAKE -- Fishing, camping,
hiking on top of Mount Graham. Closed
in winter.
EUROFRESH TOURS -- Huge tomato
production facility on the other side of the
mountain offers free commercial tours.
PADDIE'S RIVER -- Interesting side
canyon in the Galiuros. You can approach
from the Sunset area.
WILD RASPBERRIES -- Late August
in most any old burn area on the top of
Mount Grahm. Also prickley pears and
commercial apples later and lower.
EAGLE CREEK HOT SPRING -- There
are several of these. The nicest is like
soaking inside a giant geode. A F-M mine
access permit is recommended.
PIMA BADLANDS -- Huge area to the
west is largely roadless. Interesting
geology full of nooks and crannies of
one sort or another.
ARAVAPIA CANYON - World class
riparian wilderness stream. Eastern
access is currently restricted. BLM
permits required.
CLUFF PONDS -- Several small lakes
are an Arizona Game and Fish developed
location. Just south of Pima.
NORTH TAYLOR CANYON -- Hiking
trails lead to a divide in the mountains
separating Mt Graham proper from West
Peak.
COPPER CREEK CROSSOVER -- An
ancient and vehicle impassible wagon
road once connected fourmile with the
upper end of the Copper Creek mining
district. Access may be restricted.
CARTER SAWMILL - One of many
earlier sawmill sites reachable by hiking
trail beyond 4WD access.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 66 - 78: | . |
|
POWERS GARDEN -- Scene in the
Galiuros of a major historical shootout.
Today a pleasant but long riparian hike.
OLD US 70 - Two stretches of long abandoned
and somewhat overgrown roadways are perfect
for hiking and mountain biking.
DUTCH HENRY TRAIL -- The only
eastern trail off the mountain. Ends
up in Stockton Wash.
BLACKJACK CAVE -- Large shelter
cave in the underappreciated Big Lue
Mountain range near the NM border.
HANNA HOT SPRING -- One of the
most remote in AZ now needing a 14
mile round trip hike. Check nearby Little
Blue Box and the columnar hex basalt
a short trip upcanyon from the spring.
FORT BOWIE -- Old military fort is
a National Monument. Normal access
involves a one mile hiking trail.
NOON CREEK -- The first shady picnic
spot on the mountain. Two miles further
up is Jacobson Canyon with just enough of
a small stream for kiddy puddling.
EL CAPITAN CANYON -- My favorite
narrow Escabrosa Limestone canyon where
you can almost touch both walls at once.
Minimum trip size: four, at least one of
whom should be rope qualified. No dogs.
DEER CREEK CABIN -- Trailhead for
several NE Galiuro trails that include
Kennedy Peak and others.
WHITLOCK HOT LAKE -- Declining
water tables have left this artesian
source less than it once was. But still
an interesting and very offbeat trip.
WEST PEAK LOOP -- Start at the lookout
tower and work your way down John's Canyon
Ridge and Bellows Canyon to the old ranger
station and spring.
CEDAR SPRINGS -- Popular family and
religious retreat gathering place. Drought
has reduced the springs from spectacular to
the barest hint of a seep.
JUAN MILLER -- Primo access to the
Lower Blue River country along with
some fascinating geology.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 79 - 91: | . |
|
FISHERMAN'S POINT -- Seldom visited
area just into New Mexico offers fishing,
swimming, impressive cliffs.
WHITLOCK CAVES & RUINS -- Nearly
inaccessible on east face of mountain.
See the topo maps for details.
SOUTH BUFORD CANYON -- The "back
way" to Aravaipa is perfect for mountain
biking and remote hiking.
UPPER SAN FRANCISCO -- Mine road
above Clifton leads to caves, swimming,
hot springs, and Blue River confluence.
McEUEN RUIN -- One of very few
local large rock shelters inside a cave.
Access restricted.
GRANT CREEK - Very difficult hike
involves steep trail. The falls themselves
demand ropework and canyoneering skills.
STOCKTON PASS AREA -- Besides
picnic and camping areas, offers access
to Shake Springs trail and routes south
through upper Hog Canyon.
HIDDEN TREASURE PARK -- Obscure
rough trails lead to very private camping on
flowing but tiny Big Creek. Plus alternate
foot access to the Grant Hill area.
REDFIELD CANYON -- The "other" wet
stream in the Galiuros is my favorite.
Private land access can be avoided by the
longer Jackson Cabin approach.
RUG ROAD TO PARSONS -- While this
is a mesmerizingly awful world class jeep
trail, day hiking to Parsons Grove makes
for a very reasonable all day foot trip.
THE GREASEWOODS -- Plenty of hiking
opportunities, especially via the Wood
Canyon road. Other approaches are from
the Jernigan Ranch or the Ten Ranch.
GUTHRIE PEAK -- Antenna farm offers
sweeping views of the Gila Valley and
much of Southeastern Arizona.
DAY MINE AREA -- Seasonal wet
streams, oak woodland, solitude.
Access starts just north of Fort Thomas.
Do NOT try to return via Markham
Creek! 4wd tracks do not connect.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 92 - 104: | . |
|
BATTLE MOUNTAIN -- The actual
location of this Apache-U.S. Calvary skirmish
ranged from Cedar Springs to K-H Butte.
The injuns won this one 4-0.
TRAMWAY ACCESS -- The best areas
demand extreme effort. These do include
the high towers, the escarpment leap,
Alabam Point, and fourth transfer station.
HOOKER HOT SPRINGS -- Aka the
Muleshoe Ranch. Interpretive hikes and
rentable Nature Conservancy casitas.
LADYBUG PEAK -- Stunning views plus
seasonal namesake insects. Gives access
to Dutch Henry, Bear Canyon, and the
actual and quite steep Ladybug trail.
SPRING CANYON -- Little known and
seldom visited birding area north of the
Mesquite Bosque.
LITTLE DRAGOON ARCH -- One of the
larger natural stone arches in SE Arizona.
Bushwacking required for access. Can be
seen from I-10. Sort of.
FREEMAN FLAT -- Very close in area is an
offroad favorite. Includes erosional canyons,
ruins, and old CCC water diversion projects.
P RANCH MINE -- One of very few mines
in the largely unmineralized Grahams. Also
nearby is a very early irrigation canal.
TOPPY'S CAVE -- Huge shelter cave on
the eastern slope of upper Bonita Creek.
Steep hike off a difficult 4WD route.
TANQUE -- Little remains at this railroad
site that once provided water for steam
engines. Alternate way to Hot Well Dunes.
COPPER CANYON -- Old mining district
at the far end of the Rug Road 4WD route.
Wet stream, riparian, anglo ruins.
SAN JOSE HOT WELL -- Yet another local
hot artesian water source. OK Picnic spot is
not really swimmable or soakable.
TURTLE MOUNTAIN -- Long route gives
possible mine-free alternate access to the
lower Eagle Creek area.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 105 - 117: | . |
|
SHINGLE MILL CANYON -- Site of the
original toll road up the Grahms. Now
vehicle impassible in seven places. Also
gives access to much of the Tramway.
WINGS OVER WILLCOX -- Annual
January birding event on the Playa
celebrates Sandhill Crane flyway.
SAND TANK -- The primary eastern
Santa Teresa access point to cross the
range or access Pinaccle Ridge climbing.
SOUTHERN GILA BOX -- Access roads
South of the river are much less used. A
reasonable 4wd route near San Jose; a
challenging one down Deadman Canyon
off the Back Country Byway.
THE ROAD TO NOWHERE -- A "new"
road was started up the Grahams by
prison labor, stalled when funding did.
It is not clear how or where both ends
were going to meet.
THE BLUE PONDS -- Popular tweenybopper
party site south of Daley Estates. Lakes
are apparently no longer full or maintained.
Prehistoric grids and roasting pits nearby.
As is an artesian warm tub.
ARCADIA TRAIL -- One of the easiest of
Grahm Mountain trails goes from Shannon
to Arcadia. But avoid wandering off into
super rugged Upper Marijilda canyon.
BACK COUNTRY BYWAY -- Steep dirt
alternate route to Morenci offers 21 miles
of access to hiking, whitewater, trains, kiosks
cinder pits, history, ranches, and vistas.
THATCHER SEWER PONDS - An unlikely
but popular birding spot. Sometimes are
frequented by Great Blue Herons, by far our
classiest local bird.
THE OLD TUNNELS -- Abandoned railroad
route on lower San Francisco river included
these plus several 360 degree climbing loops.
TWILIGHT AREA -- Underappreciated and
easily accessed picnic and camping area
above Turkey Creek. The other end of the
"no middle" road to and from nowhere.
BENEATH FRYE DAM -- Western fork off
the Deadman Canyon road leads up and under
the resevoir in an interesting riparian canyon.
Watch out for rattlesnakes!
WEBB PEAK -- No longer used but hiker
accessible lookout tower in the top center of
the Grahams. Sweeping views.
| Gila Valley Day Hikes 118 - 130: | . |
|
OLIVER TRAIL -- Very remote canyon in one of
the wildest parts of the Gila Montains on the Left
Fork of Markham Creek. Note that upper and
lower Markham 4WD tracks do NOT connect!
WATCHIBLE WILDLIFE PLATFORM -- Treetop
level intrepretive site is handicapped accessible.
Near the junction of Bonita Creek and the Gila.
HARRIS CAMP CANYON -- Eminently hikable
and mountain bikable tracks just south of Tollgate
Pass. Deepening canyon looks interesting on topos.
TURKEY CREEK RUIN -- A second cliff dwelling
inside a cave. BLM interpretive site upcanyon
from Arivaipia.
TABLE MOUNTAIN -- Sweeping views and early
mine historic artifacts just off the legendary and world
class 4WD Rug Road. You can't get there from here.
JOHNNY CREEK -- Interesting area on the far side
of back of beyond. Mining activity may limit loop
trips. Approach from Solomon Pass.
PELONCILLO WILDERNESS -- Area west of the
Lordsburg Playa and northeast of Bowie offers
mountain sheep, remote hiking, vista peaks.
Some access restrictions.
BEAR SPRINGS TRAIL - Easternmost southern
trail off the Grahams steeply goes through many
life zones. Car shuttle advised.
OLD BANANA FARM - Yet another Gila Valley
scam just above the Thatcher Diversion dam.
Close-in riparian and river access still recovering
from a major fire.
BACK ROUTE TO MUD SPRINGS -- Little
known and seldom explored impassible jeep
trail west from the Frey Mesa Road makes for
quiet winter hiking.
BLACK HILLS ARCH -- Smaller natural arch
in the Pima Box Canyon north of Fort Thomas.
A five mile round trip.
SHEEP TANK --Small resevoir two miles east
off the Frey Mesa road makes for a close in and
easy picnic lunch site. Frye Creek is alternately
diverted through here when it is flowing.
| Gila Valley Latest Day Hike Additions: | . |
|
BLUE JAY PEAK -- This top of mountain
hiking trail starts at West Peak Lookout.
Sweeping vistas, Government Spring.
ADAMS FLAT -- Waterfalls and rock
scrambling area above Engle Orchard
in Jacobson Canyon. Seasonal flow.
BONITA CEROMONIAL CAVE -
Site of a one time stash of very early
indian artifacts. A beautiful riparian
area with flowing stream.
CHESLEY FLAT -- Superb north views
via easy hike to Grandview Peak. Also
gives you top access to the remote and
difficult Blair Canyon Trail.
CAVE CREEK MYSTERY - Cavers
have found nothing in this small canyon
between Deadman and Frey in gniess.
Why was it named by who?
"RINGCONE" TANK -- The name likely
started out as "Rincon". Makes for an
interesting winter offtrail hike destination
via Cottonwood Wash or Goathill Trail.
( update continuing )
Please email your suggestions to me.
| Coronado National Forest Trails: | . |
|
The condition, ease of use and maintenance of Coronado National
Forest trails is very much dependent on floods, fires, and funding.
Here is a list of some of their currently maintained trails:
GALUIROS --
East Divide
Holdout Spring
Powers Garden
Rattlesnake
Sycamore
Tortilla
West Divide
MOUNT GRAHAM -
Arcadia
Ash Creek
Bear Canyon
Clark Peak
Cunningham
Deadman
Dutch Henry ( delisted? )
Frey Canyon
Gibson ( top access blocked )
Grant Creek
Grant Goudy
Grant Hill Loop
Heliograph
Ladybug
Round the Mountain
Shake springs
Taylor
Webb Peak
SANTA TERESAS --
None listed, but there is a fairly good
trail to and over the top.
| BLM Trails: | . |
|
While there are numerous hiking trails of varying conditions
on local BLM lands, the only signed and promoted nearby
ones I know of are their...
Dankworth Villiage Cultural Trail
Safford-Morenci Trail
Turkey Creek Cliff Dwelling
Watchable Wildlife Platform
| Gila Valley Places to Best Avoid: | . |
|
We might complement our above lists of Gila Valley day
hikes with this list of places to avoid that you will NOT
want to visit..
SPENAZUMA MINE -- 1900's gold
mining scam is a private working ranch on
which visitors are strongly discouraged.
ARIVAIPA CANYON -- There is an eastern
access problem caused by a locked gate from
a few-chips-shy-of-a-full-board landowner.
TOP OF MT GRAHAM -- Red squirrel
refugium access closed by the Bureau
of sports fisheries and wildlife, among other
agencies. Trailhead access to some northern
trails are blocked and prohibited.
EDEN HOT SPRINGS -- Once hippy paradise
is now part of a working cattle ranch. Apparently
large group reservations remain possible on an
advance fee basis. Subject to availability.
FREEPORT MCMORAN -- Due to copper
mine development, many access points north
to the Gila Mountains now have locked gates,
guardhouses, or are otherwise restricted.
THATCHER HOT WELL -- Has been plugged
with concrete over a nudes-vs-prudes squabble.
You still can visit, but there is nothing there.
BEAR SPRINGS -- Old hippy commune and
artesian spring site seems to have locked
access gates and very little left. May be
under new private development.
MT. GRAHAM OBSERVATORY -- While
scheduled tours and individual invitees are
welcome, trespassers will be prosecuted to the
fullest extent of the law by an aggressive 24/7
onsite police force.
THE LOWER COALFIELDS -- Arizona's
"other" coal mining area lies on the res in
the mineral strip. Most access is strongly
discouraged. The coal is apparently of little
commercial value. Otherwise, it would have
been stolen off the indians long ago.
GUTHRIE -- One time ghost town and train
watering station is now a group of ranchettes,
complete with "Neighborhood Watch" signs.
BLM GLYPTODONT SITE -- This scientific
paleo fossil research area in the San Simon
River basin remains access restricted.
CARPENTER'S CAVE -- Between the ranch
and res access hassles and the technical climb,
this tiny shelter cave is not worth visiting.
TRAMWAY PIMA BASE STATION -- This
appears to have been recently sold and seems
to be private property under development. The
two story duck blind is somewhat of a mystery.
WATSON WASH HOT WELL -- Now sealed
by BLM over wild parties, drugs, shootings,
fires, and nudes-versus-prudes issues.
RES ACCESS -- There are all sorts of recent
horror stories over visits to the San Carlos indian
reservation. Ranging from gang intimidation to
shakedowns to extreme permit enforcement
to outrageous fines. But their casino will still
be happy to take your money.
WINTER ON THE MOUNTAIN -- Mount Graham
access is closed during winter to vehicles beyond
Shannon Campground. Skiers, snowmobiles,
and hikers are usually permitted.
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